Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
